GadgetUK returns to faulty bricks and steady hands. The focus keyphrase is Amiga PSU fixes. Part two opens with a third-party Amitech supply that shows 0V on all rails. He checks the plug, tightens terminals, and inspects the 3A fuse. Then he measures safely before power. No shorts show, so he swaps the internal fuse and tests again. The Amitech wakes up cleanly with 5.23V, +11.9V, and −10.65V. He nudges a hot resistor off a heatsink, confirms low ripple, and calls the first win.
Next, an A600 unit lands on the bench with a “whistle” note. It shows no output, so he works methodically. He confirms the plug fuse, then traces a hard short on the −12V rail. Diodes test fine. A nearby electrolytic reads dead short. Out it comes. Short gone. He replaces that cap and its neighbor with low-ESR parts, bumps voltage ratings, and tidies the glue. Amiga PSU fixes keep rolling.
Now for the truth test. Under load, rails settle at 5.18V, +12.0V, and −11.6V. That beats many stock units. He refreshes thermal compound on the secondary device, reassembles the case, and scrubs years of grime from the cable and shell. The brick looks nearly new. He plans multi-hour soak tests and several power cycles to be sure it holds.
Safety stays front and center. He reminds viewers that switch-mode supplies store lethal charge. Mains first, probes second. Discharge caps and avoid the primary side unless you know your stuff. The walkthrough shows quick checks that save time: verify fuses, rule out shorts on output rails, then suspect startup parts. When a rail reads short, isolate by lifting the suspect diode or cap. Simple steps, strong results.
This episode balances fault finding with care tips. It shows where glue can hide parts, how to read realistic rail numbers, and when a fuse is the whole story. For anyone sorting their retro desk, Amiga PSU fixes like these bring quiet bricks back into service without drama.
